Construction drawings focus on a building’s shape, appearance, and dimensions, while the written construction specifications, or specs, focus on what materials will be used and how they should be installed. In general, the more detail in the written specifications, the better. Without detailed specs, you don’t really know what to expect in the finished project.
What information goes in written notes on the drawings, and what goes in the specifications is up to the designer, but a good set of detailed specs goes far beyond what could possibly be put into a drawing. It’s OK if the same information appears in both places, but if there is a contradiction, the specifications generally take priority, at least legally.
At a minimum, building specifications list what materials to use, and call out any special installation requirements. Specs are much more valuable if they go further and provide detailed installation requirements and establish quality standards for the materials and the workmanship. Equally important is providing a measurable way to determine whether the work has met the standard. This will prove valuable if there are any disagreements over the quality of the work.
On a large job, the specs will be broken down by trades, so there will be specs for painting, roofing, concrete work, flooring, and so on.
On a small remodeling job, the roofing specs might be as simple as:
Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. New shingles shall be 30-year architectural shingles with 36-inch-wide Grace Ice-and-Water Shield, or approved equal, at eaves. Underlayment shall be 15-pound asphalt felt paper. Premium F-8 aluminum drip edge to be installed at eaves and along gable ends, with Air Vent Shingle Vent at ridge.
On a high-end new home designed by an architect, the roofing specs might go a lot further – stating that the roof shingles must meet specific standards (UL) for fire resistance and (ASTM) for wind resistance, that the “tar paper” underlayment meet a specific ASTM standard, and that the drip edge must be of a certain minimum thickness of aluminum. It may go further to state that the shingles must be installed within a certain temperature range, which may be more restrictive than the manufacturer’s requirements. For example:
Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. Site shall be left free of nails and other debris. New shingles shall be GAF Timberline Series 30 year architectural shingle, or equal acceptable to owner, installed as per the written manufacturer’s instructions, and within the temperature range recommended by manufacturer. All eaves shall be lined with 36 in. Grace Ice and Water Shield. Grace Ice and Water Shield shall also line all valleys and any roof areas with a slope of 3:12 or less.
Underlayment shall be ASTM D226 TypeI or II asphalt-impregnated underlayment or an approved synthetic underlayment, lapped min. 6 in. at horizontal seams and min. 4 in. at vertical seams. Nails shall be double hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails of sufficient length to fully penetrate roof sheathing. Use step flashing at all roof penetrations; Flashing shall be .032 in. aluminum or 16 oz. copper or lead-coated copper. Use .032 in. aluminum drip edge at all eaves and gable ends. Install Air Vent Shingle Vent II at ridge, as per manufacturer’s written instructions.
Many construction jobs are done with no or minimal written specifications. The customer doesn’t really know what he or she is getting, and often is often disappointed with the results. In the absence of a written spec, you will often get so-called “builder’s grade” products, a euphemism for cheap and basic. Builder’s-grade windows are typically solid vinyl with very cheap screens that are difficult or impossible to remove without breaking them – I know, as I have some in my current home and previous home. Builder’s-grade doors, floor coverings, tubs, showers, bathroom fixtures, and cabinets share the same minimal price and quality.
If you want better, and if you want to know ahead of time what you are getting from a contractor, you need at least basic written specifications, identifying the products that will be used, how many coats of paint or floor finish you are getting, and so on. Otherwise, it’s a complete crap shoot. If you are working with a quality-minded, conscientious contractor, you may get an excellent job, but why leave it up to chance?
You can’t and don’t want to spec every nail. But reasonably detailed specs will reduce your risk of getting substandard materials or workmanship, and it will reduce the risks of disputes over the completed work quality since the standards for material type, quality, and workmanship are spelled out in black and white.
How detailed a spec should be depends on the complexity and requirements of the job. I’d recommend basic specs, such as listing the products to be used by brand and model for just about every product and material to be used on the job. For paints and coatings, you will want to know what prep work will be done and how many coats applied.
Beyond that, you’ll want detailed specs for portions of the job that are very costly (or costly to fix, such as the foundation), critical to the success of the project, prone to problems (like radiant floors), or require specialized products or workmanship that may be unfamiliar to the tradespeople doing the job. If problems show up after the work is done, you will be in a much stronger position to get the work repaired if you have a written spec to fall back on. Examples of products or systems that should have detailed installation specs, and issues to cover in the specs, include:
Over the years, I’ve learned to assume nothing about a job where the scope of work is not in writing. If the work description or construction drawing is not specific, you won’t really know what you’re getting until the job is done. You may be happy with it – or not, but changing it mid-job or after completion is always expensive and who will pay for the changes will always be contested.
If you know what you want, specify it. Do you want the nail holes filled with a color-matched putty on your natural woodwork – if so, put it in the contract. Otherwise you might find yourself filling several hundred holes by yourself after the job is “done.”
While you can’t spec every last nail, there are times when you have to spec things as small as nails. For example, I once built a gambrel roof using site-built trusses fabricated with plywood gussets. The nails in the gussets had to be a specific size, length, and number, and installed in a specific pattern for the engineered design to work. Using the proper type and size of nails and fasteners is also critical in truss hangers and other engineered framing connectors, as well as with tile backerboards, drywall (to prevent nail pops), and many other building materials. So, in many cases, it does make sense to specify the nails.
Specifications may cover the properties and installation of products and materials, and systems. They are either written as product specifications, installation specifications, or performance specifications.
Product specifications. These can name specify a specific brand-name product, such as: “Foundation insulation shall be 2-inch tongue-and-groove Dow Styrofoam, or equivalent.” To give the contractor more flexibility it may provide a technical spec, such as “Rigid foam insulation to be 2-inch-thick extruded polystyrene with tongue-and-groove edges, with a minimum compressive strength of 25 psi.”
The first type of spec, that names the product is certainly the simplest – no question about what is to be used. Language such as “or equivalent” or “or similar” are OK as long as you state in your contract that any such substitutions must be “approved by owner or owner’s representative.” In some cases, like with extruded foam insulation above, all major brands are pretty much the same. With other types of products, such as paint, doors and windows, siding products, and composite wood products, equivalency is harder to determine. You’re better off finding the product you like and speccing just that.
Highly technical specs are probably overkill for most residential products, except in high-end jobs, and in instances where the design or code calls for specialty products. For example, if you are putting Styrofoam insulation under a slab or foundation, you will need a higher compressive strength than what is typically found in the lumberyard. If you are in an area where the code requires impact resistant windows, wind-resistant roofing, or special structural connections to protect against earthquakes or high winds, then technical specifications are essential.
Installation specifications. Most contractors and tradespersons have their own way of doing things. In the building trades, you’ll often hear things like “This is how I’ve always done it” and “I’ve always done it this way and haven’t had any problems.” That’s exactly what the contractor told me who installed a Velux skylight in a shallow roof, violating the manufacturer’s specs, and guess what – it leaked until I removed it and reinstalled it per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Unfortunately “the way we’ve always done it” may not work anymore due to changes in materials, codes, energy standards, or other factors particular to your job. The goal of installation specs is to avoid these kinds of problems. These describe, in detail, how a product is to be installed or applied. For example,
Install 2-inch Styrofoam extruded polystyrene insulation over interior side of basement wall by attaching wood furring strips vertically over the foam insulation at 16-in. or 24-in. on center. Fasten 1×2-in. or 2×4-in. furring strips through the foam insulation and into basement wall using Tapcon or similar screws that penetrate about 1-1/4″ into the concrete wall. Use 4 screws per 8 ft. furring strip.
Quality standards. Installation specs for visible finish work often contain quality standards as well (see also Quality Standard contract language). Quality standards are only useful if they provide an objective, measurable way to determine if the standard has been met. For example, a Level 4 drywall finish, from US Gypsum, based on the standards of the Gypsum Association is as follows:
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. In addition, two separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface shall be covered with a drywall primer like Sheetrock first coat prior to the application of the final decoration.
While this goes into great detail about the installation, the only standard about the quality of the visible finish is that the joint compound should be “smooth and free of tool marks and ridges.” How smooth and free of tool marks is pretty vague.
A better quality standard is provided by the National Association of Homebuilders (NAHB) in their book of Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. This provides both performance guidelines and corrective actions. For drywall finish to meet their standard it must not have any of the following:
This seems like a reasonable standard, although I’d apply the same standard to cracks as to other defects: Any drywall crack visible from 6 feet under normal conditions should be fixed.
Performance specs. This type of spec describes the standards that must be met, rather than the specific product of system to be used. The contractor will propose a product or system, which must then be approved by the owner or owner’s representative, such as an architect or construction manager.
Performance specs are often used for heating, air conditioning, and other mechanical systems. They may also be used for wells, septic systems, or other building components where the performance is more important than the specific products and materials used. In general, this is a practical and economical approach that puts the responsibility on the subcontractor or vendor to design the system. They have the expertise to do this efficiently and are accustomed to putting out proposals. They may offer some suggestions that differ from your specs, which are generally worth listening to.
A performance spec for an air-source heat pump might read:
Air-source heat pump shall cool all rooms in the house to 76°F degrees in cooling season with outdoor temperatures of 93°F, and heat all rooms in winter to 70°F with outdoor temperature of 25°F. First and second floor shall have separate heating and cooling zones. All ductwork to be galvanized sheet metal or insulated duct board, fabricated, sized, and installed in accordance with applicable ASHRAE and SMACNA standards. All ductwork joints shall be sealed with duct mastic (and fiberglass tape on ductboard). All ductwork in unconditioned spaces shall be insulated. Heat pump to be Energy Star certified.
Special conditions. This type of specification would cover an special measures required on the job due to poor weather (too hot or too cold), difficult access, very steep or wet sites, environmental concerns, etc.
Special words and phrases. Certain phrases are commonly used in specs. Some are good, some not so good. The main ones to watch for are:
Here are examples of good and poor specifications:
Poor: “Composite-type decking, Trex or equivalent, fastened with hidden fasteners.”
Good: “Decking to be 1-inch-thick Trex Transcend composite decking installed with the Trex Hideaway Hidden Fastener System, in accordance with the manufacturer’s written instructions. Color to be selected by owner.”
Poor: All exterior trim to be primed and painted with Benjamin Moore latex paint, or equivalent.
Good: Before painting, exterior trim to have exposed knots sealed with shellac or equivalent sealer. Exposed corners to be lightly sanded. All trim shall be primed on all six sides with Benjamin Moore Latex Primer 169, and receive two top coats of Benjamin Moore Exterior Acrylic Latex Semi–Gloss K588.
Poor: Ceramic wall tile be installed over tile backerboard with thinset mortar. Grout shall be installed with movement joints, as needed, and sealed upon completion
Good: Ceramic wall tile to be installed with latex-modified thinset mortar over 1/2-inch Hardibacker fastened to wood framing with corrosion-resistant screws, in accordance with the backerboard manufacturer’s written instructions. All Hardibacker edges to be backed by solid framing. Grout color to be approved by owner. Grout shall be polymer-modified and sealed with Aqua Mix Sealer’s Choice Gold, from Custom Building Products. At all corners, tub edges, and changes of material, tile joints shall be grout-free and sealed with a resilient caulk to match the adjoining grout. All work shall be done in a workmanlike manner.
From the architect. If you are working with an architect, he or she will provide specs as part of the design process. Most architects use a system called MasterSpec, a comprehensive specification system following the CSI format. MasterSpec is overkill for most residential jobs, even their Small Project Specs, which is no longer available. If an architect does a lot of residential work, then they most likely have developed a simplified residential spec based on Master Spec, manufacturer’s instructions, and industry standards.
From the contractor. If the designer does not provide specs, they generally come from the contractor as part of his proposal and may range from minimal to comprehensive. At the low end you might see something like “Install architectural shingles over roofing felt as per plan.” Over time, most professional builders have assembled a pretty thorough “standard” spec that reflects their preferred materials, techniques, and details, but is always open to revision if you want to do things differently.
Spec-writing software. Some architects and contractors use spec writing software based on the CSI format. In addition to MasterSpec, software options include
Writing your own specs. If you are writing your own specs, you should start by identifying as many products as you can by brand name and model. Perhaps you want Marvin Integrity double-glazed windows with low-E glass, and Benjamin Moore Aura paint. For most products, you can specify that they be installed “according the manufacturer’s printed instructions.”
It’s even better if you take a look at these instructions and include in the specs the details that are most important to you. It’s a good way to communicate your desires and expectations to the contractor.
Most product manufacturers provide detailed instructions on the Internet. For generic products, such as ceramic tile, you will find extensive product and installation specs published by trade associations for the industry (see list of construction trade association).
Even if your contractor has his own standard specs, providing him with a written list of your product choices and preferred installation details is a good place to start and can be incorporated into the final spec. You may modify some of your ideas after discussing them with the contractor. Here is an example of a real-life spec that I wrote recently for a residential remodel. With a few revisions, it was combined with the contractor’s standard specs. Download Sample Remodeling Spec.
Construction industry standards. Trade organizations publish extensive standards for installing plywood, hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, wood shingles, and similar generic products that may not have instructions from the individual manufacturer. A stronger approach than just referencing “industry standards” is to cite a specific industry specification. For example: “Ceramic tile and backerboard to be installed according to the 2010 TCA Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation. Even better is to specify a specific standard such as “Install ceramic tile according to TCA Standard RH110-10: For Radiant Heat on Concrete: Hydronic System.” These standards go into great detail about the preparation, materials, site conditions, and installation techniques required for a professional job.
They may also cite specific quality levels. For example, the Gypsum Association (GA), in conjunction with three other trade associations publishes detailed specs for installing gypsumboard. If you specify a Level 4 Gypsumboard finish, then “All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and two separate coats of joint compound applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free from tool marks and ridges.”
Even if you have no idea what the standard states, if there are problems with the installation, you have a solid, written standard to rely on to establish whether the product was installed correctly. See list of trade associations that publish standards.
Other published standards. Some contractors cite a specific minimum quality standard such as the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines, published by the National Association of Homebuilders (NAHB). These standards cover the entire building from foundation to roof, establishing quality standards for everything from foundation cracks to painting quality. Each entry also includes commentary and corrective actions. A couple of examples follow:
Concrete Slabs: Concrete floors in living areas will not have pits, depressions, or areas of unevenness exceeding 3/8 inch in 32 inches. Corrective Measure: The contractor will correct or repair the floor to meet the guideline.
Drywall: Any joints that are visible from a standing position of 6 feet under normal lighting conditions are considered excessive. Corrective Measure: One time only during the warranty period, the contractor will repair affected areas.
The first standard for concrete slabs is pretty lax in my opinion. It falls well short of the TCNA Standards for ceramic tile, which call for no more than ¼ in. variation in 10 ft., but may be suitable for some types of floor coverings such as thick carpeting.
The second standard seems pretty reasonable to me. However, I would ask for a one-year warranty on the repair in the event that the repair is inadequate, or that the building continues to move and settle after one year – generally not a good sign.
Many of the standards, for example, allowing a ¼ inch gap allowed where cabinets fit to a wall, are pretty lax and would not meet the standards of most custom builders. Although this book is a mixed bag, and was written by a contractors’ organization primarily to protect contractors from unreasonable claims, at least it does the job of establishing objective measures of quality.
For a homeowner unfamiliar with the nitty-gritty details of construction, the book can provide a good introduction to the many types of quality issues that come into play and can serve as a starting point for establishing minimum quality standards acceptable to both parties. If a particular aspect of the job – for example, the interior woodwork, is of particular importance to you, it may make sense to establish a specific standard, borrowing from the style, if not the specific dimensions, of this book. The book allows 1/8-inch gaps in interior trim – if you are paying premium rates for custom trim, maybe a 1/16-inch gap is more reasonable.
In most cases, the standards established by individual trade organizations for drywall, ceramic tile, hardwood flooring, wood siding, etc., are more stringent than in the NAHB Guidelines, so referencing the individual standards would be preferable. If you are using an architect, he is likely to reference industry standards through the Master Spec or a similar spec writing system. Also most custom builders would aim for higher standards in their work due to professional pride, and their desire to satisfy their customers and get repeat work and referrals. That’s the contractor you want to hire.
We have zoning and planning approvals for an addition, but the drawings are not very detailed and there are no written specifications. We would like to begin to get builders’ quotes but I think it would be sensible to have specs to guarantee certain performance levels, quality standards, etc. The designer/architect who created our plans didn’t have enough technical experience, in my opinion, to put it all together. Can you provide guidance on where to look to move the project forward.
It’s always best to have detailed plans and specs before putting a project out to bid. That’s really the only way to get apples-to-apples comparisons. Even then, you will need to scrutinize the bids carefully as each may vary a little in terms of specifications and exclusions. Many contractors will not even bid a project with plans that are fuzzy, so you may need to go to another architect or draftsman to convert your rough plans into detailed architectural drawings with at least the basic construction specs. The building department may require the same before issuing a permit. If you do not provide detailed specs, then the bids will usually be accompanied by a set of specs from the contractor. These can vary from very basic and generic to highly detailed, but often tend toward the basic — often just a laundry list of the their standard procedures. The bids may also include allowances for items like kitchen cabinets and floor coverings that are not yet selected. You want to make sure that these are adequate for the products you have in mind. Or, if possible, make the selections before soliciting bids. As you can see, you still have a lot of work to do in comparing one bid to another. You need to read the bids and specs carefully and ask for clarification for anything that is unclear. It’s always best to assume that anything not expressly included in a bid may not be covered. Ask a lot of questions and get in writing what is included and excluded. At the end of the day, there is an element of trust that the contractor you hire is competent, honest, and responsible. The plans and specs cannot cover every last nail and stick of wood. So choose your contractor wisely and don’t necessarily go with the low bidder – especially if the bid is significantly lower than the others. Either the lowest bidder left something out (intentionally or unintentionally) or is over his head and the job is likely to run into problems along the way.
How can I find a spec writer for construction of a private home? We have complete filed and County-approved plans. The architect’s specs are scattered throughout the plans. We want an 8.5” x 11” packet of pages that all can sign. Jack Bittner
It is generally the architect’s job to provide written specifications that works in conjunction with the drawings to specify exactly what is to be built — including the materials, building details, quality levels, and techniques, where appropriate. On commercial projects, this usually involves a detailed written spec using one of the major spec writing systems such as MasterSpec or BSD SpecLink as well as a spec-writing specialist – either in-house or an outside consultant. On residential projects, construction specs are more variable from one firm to another. There are few spec writing systems focused on residential construction. The only one I know that is currently available is the Residential Specifications from UDL Technologies. Several residential spec companies have come and gone over the years. It seems like there is not enough money in it to keep these products going. Spec writing is a dynamic process as building materials and techniques are constantly evolving, so a good spec writing system must do the same. Whatever system an architect uses, they must customize it a great deal for their company and the specific project. Some companies fine it easier to start from scratch and write their own specs, which they adapt and modify for different projects. The specs are a combination of industry standards, manufacturer instructions, and personal preferences of the designer. Getting a couple of pages of general specs and having the rest scattered throughout the plans in not uncommon. This might be fine if you are working with a high-quality contractor who has worked a lot with this architect and knows how they like things done. If you are putting the project out to competitive bid, you will probably want a more detailed performance and product specification written as a separate document appended to the plans. . If you are hiring the architect for a full-service contract, it is clearly their job to specify the work, answer detail questions from the contractor, and inspect their work to make sure it is correct. Without a written spec, it is hard to know exactly what work is expected. So it sounds like you may need to nudge the architect to provide a more comprehensive written spec. If he architect is unable or unwilling to provide this, you may wish to find a construction specifier or construction manager to prepare a written spec, but you will need to work this out with your architect. If an architect is not involved in construction supervision on your project, then the contractor may provide his own specification, but it may be very minimal and may not reflect your wishes or the architects. So it would be best to get your architect to do his job and spec to job to a reasonable level of detail. Best of luck with your new home!
Hi Steve. Thanks for your thorough answer. May I ask: in a fixed price home building contract are the specs attached to the contract and executed by Owner and Contractor – so that even though price is “fixed”, if work is done on the house which is not listed among the specs and shown attached to the contract, Owner must pay so much extra for work done and not listed in the contract?
You have hit on what I think is the most problematic and contested issue in construction projects, large and small: What exactly is included in the contract price and what is a legitimate “extra”? Contractors and owners have wrestled over this forever. Both the drawn plans and written specifications are part of the Scope of Work in a fixed-price contract. Anything not included in the Scope of Work becomes an extra charge. It is a timeworn strategy in public works and commercial projects to bid low to win the project and then make all their profits on extra work in the form of change orders. This is less of a problem on residential work, but the same battles over extras are often fought on a smaller scale. Since extra work is often done cost plus, the owner loses any control of pricing of the extra work. If an unscrupulous contractor provides the plans and specs, he may intentionally leave things out of the contract with the intention of making a lot of money on extras. If an architect provides the plans and specs, he may unintentionally omit some of the work, and the bidders are under no legal obligation to point this out. They are just bidding on the plans as presented to them. The best contractors will point this out and add a list of “exclusions” to the contract, identifying work that is not included in the contract price. Consider finishing touches such as light fixtures, appliances, ceiling fans, window treatments, floor coverings, home entertainment, built-ins, painting and staining, landscaping, retaining walls, walkways, patios, decks, gutters and downspouts. Whether or not these are included in your contract or purchased separately, you should include them in your project budget. Needless to say, there is a certain amount of discretion and interpretation involved in building plans. It is impossible to specify every last nail, building detail, and installation technique. Contract language such as “in a workmanlike manner” and “according manufacturer’s written instructions” are intended to specify that work be done to reasonable industry standards. However, do not assume that anything not drawn or written into the specs is included in the contract price. Make as many product and material decisions beforehand to limit the use of allowances. Avoid “hidden conditions” by fully investigating the building site. If needed, hire experts such as engineers to review potential problems before you break ground. Make all your design decisions ahead of time so you don’t end up changing your mind during the project (owners changing their minds also drive a lot of change orders). Also, make sure your contract includes a clear and reasonable policy regarding change orders. The contact should make clear that no extra work should be performed without you agreeing in writing to the work and its cost – before the work is executed. This prevents the scenario where the owner is surprised at the end of the job with a large bill for extra work they were never made aware of. This should never happen. There are many possible causes of cost overruns. These are a fact of life in construction projects, which is why banks add a 5% to 10% contingency fee to construction loans. Controlling costs, without compromising quality, is a challenge for both the owner and the contractor. The best approach, in my opinion, is the start with very detailed plans and written specs, and find a contractor with integrity and a sterling reputation – and this is rarely the low bidder. Best of luck!
Do custom do builders provide extensive spec sheets or do they formulate these in the contract? How about details on what constitutes a change order, and any extra charges and fees?
Detailed plans and specifications, known as the “scope of work” are a critical part of any construction contract. The scope of work should define with a lot of specificity what work is to be completed under the contract. It may also state what work is excluded from the contract – equally valuable information to the consumer. Without detailed plans and specs, you have no way to know what you are getting for your money. You are buying a “pig in a poke”. In general, the plans show what is to be built. The specs describe in detail the materials to be used and how they will be installed. The degree of details in the specifications can vary a great deal from one contractor to the next. The more detail the better. Here, for example, are some examples of new home specs:
• Good sample specs
• Better sample specs
• Best sample specs The first on the list (Good) describes the heating system as “Individual room zoned electric baseboard. Heat pump, Geothermal, or oil heat (optional).
The second (Better) specifies a Bryant high-efficiency electric furnace.
The third (Best) specifies: a Trane S-Series 96% Gas Furnace with Variable Speed Blower in primary zone. Thermostats Programmable digital thermostats that has remote access controlled with any smartphone, tablet or computer. Air Filters Included Ultra efficient Merv 13 air filters will offer superior indoor air quality. Fresh Air Ventilation System Aprilaire with powered damper and filter. The contract should also cover the conditions under which change orders will be issued and how they will be priced. Change orders can result from changes made by the client, hidden conditions on the job site (like buried ledge), changes required by the building code, or items that were left out of the initial plans and specs either intentionally or accidentally. It’s best to make as many decisions as you can and to get them priced before starting construction. Also, if anything is unclear, or you are not sure if something is included in the scope of work, ask for additional detail. A good question to ask the builder is: Are there any additional costs that I can expect to pay before the house is ready to move into – including landscaping and any fees for permits, inspections, utility hookups, and municipal fees such “impact fees.” These multi-thousand-dollar fees, called by a lot of different names, can hit you like a ton of bricks at the end of a job. Ask the same question about fees to the local building and zoning departments to see if their information matches the builder’s. Best of luck with your new home! Read more on Detailed Plans & Specs
We are building an reasonably high-end 700m2 home in Bedfordale WA. We have engaged a builder (who is also a friend) and have signed a contract (havent paid a deposit yet), but have a few misgivings about the lack of detail in the contract – ie: “We have allowed x for this, but you may not use it all so there will be leftover to use that money somewhere else” etc. From our experience, everything normally ends up costing more than allowed, so we are worried about nasty surprises/variations etc. We want to get an detailed independant spec written that covers everything – and get the builder to put a cost against each item/area, so everything is locked down. We are prepared to pay a significant sum to get this done, but i am struggling to find someone who will do this type of thing who is not tied to their own builder/builders but is completely independant. A further requirement that would be great, is that person to make regular checks and inspections to make sure the building is up to standard. look forward to you response. Regards Paul
You are absolutely right that most things end up costing more, not less, than estimated on an allowance or non-binding estimate. And incomplete or fuzzy plans and specs is one of the leading causes of cost overruns. It sounds like you know what you need to do – nail down the plans, specs, and costs – but need some help doing it. If you used an architect or other independent designer on this project, that is the first place I would look. It is part of an architect’s job to provide detailed plans and specs that are clear enough to get you a fixed bid with minimal use of allowances. The allowances should be very specific and generally for materials only. For example, $6/sq. ft. for ceramic tile. That way you can determine beforehand whether the allowance price is reasonable. If the builder supplied the plan, then the responsibility to provide detailed plans and specs would fall to him. If he is unable or unwilling to provide a fixed bid with fewer unknowns, then you may have to find another builder or trust that this one will treat you fairly. I am very leery of contractors who will only work cost-plus. It sounds like you have a hybrid contract – part fixed bid, part cost-plus. The more you can nail down costs, the better you will be in the long run. If you want to find an independent third-party to provide these services, you will have to do some digging and may need different people for each task. It is possible that you can find an architect, engineer, or construction manager to step in at this point to nail down the plans and specs. They can also do inspections during the course of the work to make sure the work meets quality standards and complies with the plans/specs. The inspections done by municipal building inspectors focus exclusively on compliance to the building code, a very minimal standard. If your main concern is construction quality, you can hire a private building inspector to inspect the project at key points. Minimally, you need an inspection pre-dry-wall and at completion. A more thorough inspection schedule would be: Foundation and drainage complete (pre-backfill), framing complete, dry in (but before exterior cladding), rough plumbing and electrical (pre-drywall), and completion. At “dry-in,” your inspector can get a good look at housewrap details and wall and window flashings, which are common problem areas for water leakage. Your inspector should provide you with a list problems at each stage of construction that your builder needs to address. The final list can serve as your punchlist. The inspections may annoy your builder friend, but having third-party inspections is a common practice in some high-end U.S. markets. Whether or not it is a good idea to use your friend as your contractor is another question. As the Russian proverb goes, “Trust, but verify.” Read more on: Estimating Errors Allowances Cost-Plus Contracts
I’m look for a remodeling specification for a residential bathroom. Where can I find a sample spec? Thank you.
Wish I had an easy answer for you, but I am not aware of any ready-made specs for residential building projects. A couple of people have tried to assemble and sell residential specs in the past, but they are no longer on the market. The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) publishes excellent kitchen and bath design guidelines, which help designers with sizes, clearances, and functional layouts, but do not include construction specifications for things such as ceramic tile installation. For ceramic tile specs, you would need to go to buy the TCNA Handbook from the Tile Council of North America. For other materials and products, you need to go the individual trade associations or product manufacturers for accepted industry standards. At the end of the day, each contractor and designer is left to develop their own specifications that they are comfortable with. The goal is to set the bar high enough to meet or exceed established industry standards, but not so high that they are cannot be realistically met. Many contractors do not provide written specifications for their projects other than the most basic like “one coat primer and one topcoat, latex paint” – it’s up to the owner or architect to provide more detailed specs. Best of luck and please let me know if you find anything else out there so I can pass along the info.